Designs of the Times: Victorian Reticules

Silk crochet with metallic beads, 1840-1850
Courtesy Los Angeles County Museum of Art

Whenever I have a question about what a proper lady in the nineteenth century might have worn, I consult Cindy Nord. Not only is Cindy a talented writer and a lifesaver of a critique partner, but she’s also an expert on historical fashion — particularly fashions of the Victorian Era. A former Civil War re-enactor, Cindy has given lectures about Victorian clothing in all sorts of venues … dressed for the part, of course.
In her debut novel, NO GREATER GLORY (Samhain Publishing, July 2012), Cindy puts a chunk of her fashion knowledge to good use. Heroine Emaline McDaniels, the widow of a Southern plantation owner, may be watching her world come apart at the seams, but her wardrobe hasn’t suffered. It's delightful watching Emaline dress — and undress — in several scenes. (The hero, Yankee Col. Reese Cutteridge, enjoys the undressing part, in particular.)

Here, Cindy gives a brief rundown about an often-overlooked element of any well-dressed nineteenth-century lady’s wardrobe: her handbag.

Reticule: a Handbag by Any Other Name

Sterling silver mesh reticule
(personal collection of
Mary Elizabeth Todd)

Merriam-Webster defines “reticule” (RET-i-kyool; also spelled reticle) as a woman’s small bag or purse, usually in the form of a pouch with a drawstring, made of net, beading, brocade, etc. Unlike today’s purses — in which we carry everything but the kitchen sink — the delicate bags popular during the Victorian era were large enough to contain little more than a handkerchief, a scent bottle, important keys, and perhaps a coin or two.

The material from which reticules were made varied based upon when a bag would be carried. Simple cotton handkerchief designs or patterned wools and canvas were suitable for everyday use. For evenings out, a well-dressed lady’s bag might be made of silk or satin with delicate beadwork, or even elegant silver mesh chainmail.

Glass beading over silk, 1840-185
Courtesy Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Beadwork was particularly fashionable for much of the era, but only wealthy women could afford the price of an elegant hand-beaded reticule. The smaller the beads and the tighter their pattern, the more expensive the piece. Only the crème de la crème of society were able to purchase reticules bearing 100 beads per square inch.

Closures varied from simple drawstrings to more formal formed-brass metal headers with snaps. But always the item would be worn suspended from the wrist or attached to the waist by a clip to allow the lady’s hands to be free to support a fan (in the evenings) or a parasol (during afternoon outings).

As women of today look forward to the newest handbag from Coach or Louis Vuitton, the women of yesteryear perused the latest edition of Godey’s Ladies Book with glee. So anticipated were the delightful reticule patterns that each month’s collection offered several to choose from and usually included intricate beadwork examples, as well.

1869 Gladstone bag
Courtesy GladstoneBag.com

When a Victorian lady traveled, she carried a metal-framed bag called a Gladstone. According to GladstoneBag.com, “the original Gladstone Bag [was] developed in the mid-19th century and represented a kind of suitcase built on a rigid frame that could be split into two separate parts.  It was usually made of very strong leather and was often ‘tied’ with lanyards also made of leather.”  The Gladstone bag was designed by leather craftsman J.G. Beard, who named the bag after Prime Minister William Gladstone [1809–1898], a popular politician renowned for his love of travel.

True love awaits in the writing of Cindy Nord, whose work has won or finaled in numerous competitions, including the prestigious Romance Writers of America Golden Heart Awards. A luscious blend of history and romance, her stories wrap both genres around fast-paced action and emotionally driven characters. Visit her at her website, or connect with her on Facebook or Twitter.






NO GREATER GLORY

Amid the carnage of war, he commandeers far more than just her home.

Widowed plantation owner Emaline McDaniels has struggled to hold on to her late husband’s dreams. Despite the responsibilities resting on her shoulders, she’ll not let anyone wrest away what’s left of her way of life—especially a Federal officer who wants to set up his regiment's winter encampment on her land. With a defiance born of desperation, she defends her home as though it were the child she never had…and no mother gives up her child without a fight.

Despite the brazen wisp of a woman pointing a gun at his head, Colonel Reece Cutteridge has his orders. Requisition Shapinsay and its valuable livestock for his regiment’s use, and pay with Union vouchers. He never expected the widow’s fierce determination, then her concern for his wounded, to upend his heart—and possibly his career.

As the Army of the Potomac goes dormant for the winter, battle lines are drawn inside the mansion. Yet just as their clash of wills shifts to forbidden passion, the tides of war sweep Reece away. And now their most desperate battle is to survive the bloody conflict in Virginia with their lives—and their love—intact.

Available from Amazon, Barnes & Noble, Google Books, Kobo, and other ebook sellers. (Audiobook due in October 2012; print version set for release in June 2013.)